Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: Bearded Dragon watery stool

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    4

    Default Bearded Dragon watery stool

    Hello,

    I adopted Lola, our bearded dragon, about a month ago. Her previous owner says she is about three years old and has had several owners. Sheis about two feet long including her tail. She didn't seem to have any problems making the move from our neighbors to our home. We bought meal worms from PetSmart and they made her sick. Her stool was only water and I noticed the dark spots on her neck. I carefully cleaned her terrarium with a light bleach solution and boiled the her reptile mat and sterilized the hawthorn branch we added. The branch was in the oven at 250 degrees for over an hour. That was last week.

    I have been feeding her mealworms but none were available at Petland yesterday so I got her some super worms. These worms are much healthier than the ones I got from PetSmart and she loves them. Can someone please tell me how often and how many super worms I should feed her?

    I have read that she should be misted occasionally and she should also have calcium and vitamin supplements. Can someone please advise me on what and how much she needs?

    Since then I've tried introducing other foods such as organic green grapes. She loves carrots but I only feed them to her every other day. I got her a new reptile mat yesterday and cleaned her home and put in the new mat. She had a bath last night and afterwards her stool seemed normal. This morning, however, her stools were loose. I am concerned about the dark spots that have reappeared on the back of her neck.

    I am very new to reptiles and would appreciate any help.

    Thank you!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    829

    Default

    Um I don't know much about beardies but I am lead to believe they need salad as well besides getting just proteins, they are plenty of options to make the salad or you can buy some mixtures wash add extras then feed. But again I don't have beardies or know alot about them.
    1.0rat/corn 1.1redtail boas 0.1.1corns 4.2blood pythons 0.1tangerine milksnake 0.2.1Gtp 1.0bp 1.0Lucy Texas r/s 2.3.0viper boas

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    651

    Default

    Hello! I'm glad that you have come here to learn more about your new pet! I hope that you learn a bunch about how to take care of her.

    I will try to answer your questions.
    In my experience, beardies usually know how much they need to eat. So long as your beardie doesn't seem to big overweight, I would feed her worms every other day, basically as many as she'll eat. I cap out at 20 usually. I find that my beardie knows how many she needs and some days will only eat 3, some will eat 20 or more! I'd say that it is important to feed her LOTS of veggies and some fruit, etc. She should be fed the veggies everyday and try to always have them available. As an adult beardie, she should be eating 75% veggies and 25% worms, crickets, etc. I dust the worms that I feed her with calcium powder. I usually just drop them into the container, roll them around, then feed them to her. I do this every other time that I feed her worms. Occasionally I'll dust a little bit on her veggies.

    As far as misting your beardie... this is not necessary. She will stay hydrated from the veggies that you feed her. You can also give her the occasional "bath" in the sink. She will absorb some water this way and also it helps to keep them smelling better. :P

    As far as runny stool goes, this is very common depending on the amount of fruit/veggies she's eaten. For instance.. my beardie loves blueberries... but when she eats them her stool is runnier. It is pretty normal and does not mean that she's sick.

    Most people recommend against using reptile mats because it is believed that anything that is soiled should be able to be thrown out and/or sterilized really well and easily. Reptile mats are hard to sterilize well because they have all the texture and small places for feces to get stuck.

    I'm curious about the dark spots on her neck that you are referring to. Are there two of them? Or more? I'm wondering if you're just seeing the pads on the back of her neck.

    I hope this helps a bit!
    Mandie
    Next Morph Reptiles
    www.nextmorph.ca

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Edmonton
    Posts
    84

    Default

    If she isn't used to Supers, they may be hard for her to digest, just give a couple per day. Soak her in a warm bath every 2-3 day, if she doesn't drink, she will at least soak some water up her vent. I also put vitamin (reptileP drops in the water. The dark spots may be nothing to worry about, but without a picture, can't say for sure. Being an adult, she should be eating 60-70% vegetable + fruit (not citrus) and the rest protien,(worms/crickets). Be sure the basking temp is high enough (around 100 F or so).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    7,626

    Default

    I'm not a BD guy but those that are will be able to help even more if you describe your setup in detail with temps, lighting, heating methods etc. that way those that know best can help you with any potential husbandry issues that may??? need tweaking, welcome aboard & Cheers Mark
    Mark's GONE SNAKEE! No PMs please email at gonesnakee@shaw.ca

    Working with select Colubrids (Corns, Kings, Hybrids etc.) and Australian Pythons (Carpets (X's & morphs), Aspidites etc.)

    All stock parasite free and established on F/T prey (unless stated otherwise)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    4

    Default

    I thank everyone for your replies! This information will definitely help me to keep Lola happy and healthy!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    4

    Default

    I use the reptile mats but when I clean her terrarium I boil the mat in a big stock pot I have then dry it in the dryer. Is this a good practice?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    651

    Default

    Yes, it is. However I'm sure you'll tire of it quickly with the frequency that beardies defecate! :P
    Mandie
    Next Morph Reptiles
    www.nextmorph.ca

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    2,489

    Default

    I would go to a sand substrate for a BD, it's cheap easy to spot clean, and little risk so long as your animals is well hydrated. you can get a pre maid salad for cheap @ j&js. a $1.50 bag lasted me a week when I had my dragon cheaper and easier then making your own. no matter what I would get rid of the carpet, they have a tendancy to get caught and wrapped on claws and toes often ripping nails off or causing whole toes to be removed via no circulation.
    1.0 B&W argentine tegu 0.1 red argentine tegu 1.0 gold tegu 0.1 beardie 0.0.1 sudan plated lizard 2.0 leopard geckos 1.1 schniders skinks 0.1 green basilisk 0.5 corns 4.2 ball pythons 3.2 boas 1.0 african house snake 2.0king snakes 1.0 jungle carpet python

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    7,626

    Default

    I too suggest going with a disposable substate thats easy to spot clean, the carpet SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS IMHO LOL Cheers Mark
    P.S. you will find many folks dead set against sand, that said there are pros & cons to every substrate
    Mark's GONE SNAKEE! No PMs please email at gonesnakee@shaw.ca

    Working with select Colubrids (Corns, Kings, Hybrids etc.) and Australian Pythons (Carpets (X's & morphs), Aspidites etc.)

    All stock parasite free and established on F/T prey (unless stated otherwise)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •